The moment you pass Bad Roman's glowing neon-red entrance sign and lock eyes with the wild boar statue presiding over the check-in desk, you understand what you're walking into: unapologetic theater. Tucked inside the Deutsche Bank Center at Columbus Circle, this is Quality Branded's most aggressive swing yet—a restaurant that feels, as one observer aptly put it, like the love child of a Rainforest Cafe and an old-school Italian spot. It's exceedingly Instagrammable, to say it mildly, and the internet has noticed. TikTok and Instagram have exploded with clips of the maximalist dining room, making Bad Roman the city's buzziest new Italian restaurant before most people have even tasted the food.
Here's the paradox: the food is inconsistent, often gimmicky, and occasionally forgettable—yet the restaurant guarantees entertainment in a way that most serious dining rooms simply cannot. The Short Rib Pappardelle and Filet Mignon with Cacio e Pepe Raviolo promise more than they deliver, falling victim to the kitchen's apparent inability to nail fundamentals consistently. But then you encounter the Black Truffle Honey Whipped Ricotta, or better yet, the Tiramisu Ice Cream Cake, and the whole equation shifts. These aren't just Instagram fodder; they're genuinely worth braving the crowds for, especially from a bar seat where you can watch the theater unfold.
The real twist at Bad Roman is that the best dishes are the ones that lean fully into the "phones eat first" ethos. The Tiramisu Ice Cream Cake and Lemon Cheesecake aren't accidents of indulgence—they're calculated moments of pleasure, the kind of desserts that photograph like dreams and actually taste like something worth the wait. It's a rare restaurant that admits this openly through its menu, prioritizing visual spectacle without apologizing for it.
Should you go? If you're chasing pure novelty and Instagram moments, Bad Roman delivers without hesitation. If you're seeking the kind of Roman food that will haunt you for weeks, there are quieter, more focused restaurants elsewhere in the city. But if you can appreciate a restaurant that commits entirely to its vision—gimmicks, boar statue, and all—while still sneaking in genuinely good desserts, Bad Roman earns its seat at the table. Just manage your expectations, arrive with friends, and order the tiramisu.